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# Walking with Giants: Antonio Machado’s Poetic Footsteps through Segovia
- URL: https://www.thesegovian.com/walking-with-giants-antonio-machados-poetic-footsteps-through-segovia/
- Published: 2026-10-03T22:01:41.000Z
- Updated: 2026-10-04T09:55:25.000Z
- Description: A literary walk through Segovia: Machado’s modest boarding house, public university, Roman arches and the quiet riverbanks that gave him room to think.
- Author: The Segovian Editorial Team
- Tags: Segovia Stories, #automation-state

The Segovian · Segovia Stories · Literary walks

A rented room. A university for the people. A riverbank with room to think. Follow Antonio Machado into the quieter heart of Segovia.

Segovia knows how to command attention. The Aqueduct fills the sky. Towers rise above tiled roofs. Yet Antonio Machado’s story begins somewhere smaller: a rented room on a quiet street.

Between **1919 and 1932**, the poet lived here while teaching French. He helped bring education to ordinary people. He walked beside the Eresma. The city became part of his working life, his friendships and his imagination.[1](#sg-source-1)

This walk follows those traces. Some poems name Segovia directly. Others accompany the streets through their images of windows, towers and childhood. Read them as invitations to look more closely.

**Your afternoon with Machado**[01 The boarding house](#sg-house) · [02 San Quirce](#sg-quirce) · [03 San Martín](#sg-square) · [04 The Aqueduct](#sg-aqueduct) · [05 The Eresma](#sg-river) · [06 The poets’ garden](#sg-garden)  
Allow half a day, including the museum and pauses. Wear comfortable shoes. The valley route includes a descent and an uphill return.

01

## A small room,  
a wider world

Casa Museo de Antonio Machado & the neighborhood  
Poetic companion: **“Para tu ventana”**

Begin at **5 Calle de los Desamparados**. Away from the monumental city, Segovia shrinks to a more intimate scale: a doorway, a window, a wall warmed by the sun.

Machado arrived in November 1919\. Soon afterward, he settled in the boarding house run by **Luisa Torrego**. He kept a room here until 1932—almost thirteen years in a home whose modest surroundings survive in the museum.[1](#sg-source-1)

![The courtyard and entrance of Antonio Machado’s house museum in Segovia](https://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/3/37/Casa-museo-Machado-Segovia.jpg)

The boarding house behind the poet’s Segovian years. Photo: [Latemplanza / Wikimedia Commons](https://commons.wikimedia.org/wiki/File:Casa-museo-Machado-Segovia.jpg) · [CC BY-SA 3.0](https://creativecommons.org/licenses/by-sa/3.0/). Archival photograph, 2014; unaltered.

Inside, resist the urge to hurry. Notice the furniture and the room’s proportions. Fame did not require grand surroundings. The house also preserves images of **Leonor**, his late wife, and **Guiomar**, his later muse. Private feeling enters a place otherwise defined by restraint.

Carry **“Para tu ventana”** into the nearby lanes. Its speaker searches a maze of streets for a beloved window, with roses in hand. Let the poem shape your attention without assigning its imagined window to a particular façade.

Outside, walk slowly. A window can hold you as completely as a cathedral.

### Practical Visitor Info

- **Start:** Calle de los Desamparados, 5\. Allow 30–45 minutes inside.
- **Tickets:** Check [official hours and admission](https://www.turismodesegovia.com/en/antonio-machado/museums/antonio-machado-house-museum); holiday arrangements may differ.
- **Access:** Ask the museum about access to the historic building before booking.

02

## Poetry with  
a public purpose

Torre de San Quirce  
Poetic companion: **“La plaza tiene una torre”**

**Walk toward Plaza de San Quirce**, a short journey through the old town. Stop before the former Romanesque church. Look up at the tower.

Here, Machado’s story becomes a shared endeavor. In late **1919**, he joined the founders of the **Universidad Popular Segoviana**. Their ambition was to bring culture and education closer to people with limited opportunities for study.[2](#sg-source-2)

![The stone tower and Romanesque doorway of San Quirce in Segovia](https://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/8/8b/Church_of_San_Qu%C3%ADrce%2C_Segovia.jpg)

San Quirce: old stone given a new educational purpose. Photo: [Bernard Gagnon / Wikimedia Commons](https://commons.wikimedia.org/wiki/File:Church%5Fof%5FSan%5FQu%C3%ADrce,%5FSegovia.jpg) · [CC BY-SA 3.0](https://creativecommons.org/licenses/by-sa/3.0/). Archival photograph, 2009; unaltered.

The university acquired San Quirce in **1927**, rescuing a church that had become a barn and warehouse. Machado gave fifty books from his collection to its circulating library. Today, the building houses the **Real Academia de Historia y Arte de San Quirce**.[2](#sg-source-2)

**“La plaza tiene una torre”** moves from square to tower, from tower to balcony, then inward to a person and a flower. Read it here as an exercise in attention. Begin with the architecture. Then consider the people who made it useful again.

### Practical Visitor Info

- **Walk:** Head from the museum toward Plaza de San Quirce; allow roughly 5–10 minutes.
- **Entry:** View the exterior freely from the public square.
- **Inside:** Consult the [Academy’s programme](https://realacademiadesanquirce.es/). Interior access is subject to its activities.

Let the architecture wait  
while you watch the people.

03

## The city at play

Plaza de las Sirenas / San Martín  
Poetic companion: **“Pegasos, lindos pegasos”**

**Return toward Plaza Mayor, then follow Calle de Juan Bravo downhill** to San Martín and the nearby Plaza de las Sirenas.

The street opens into terraces, steps and stone façades. Café voices drift across the square. Footsteps interrupt them. If children are playing, their movement changes the whole scene.

![The stepped Plaza de Medina del Campo, popularly known as Plaza de las Sirenas, in Segovia](https://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/f/f6/Plaza_de_Medina_del_Campo_%28Segovia%29.jpg)

The stepped square of Medina del Campo, known locally as Plaza de las Sirenas. Photo: [Romerin / Wikimedia Commons](https://commons.wikimedia.org/wiki/File:Plaza%5Fde%5FMedina%5Fdel%5FCampo%5F%28Segovia%29.jpg) · [CC BY 3.0](https://creativecommons.org/licenses/by/3.0/). Archival photograph, 2011; unaltered.

This is a place to sit.

**“Pegasos, lindos pegasos”** remembers wooden carousel horses, a festive night and childhood happiness bought with a copper coin. The poem recalls the speaker’s childhood; it is not documentary evidence of children playing in this particular square.[3](#sg-source-3)

Still, it changes how you look. Around San Martín, the weight of old stone meets the passing life of the street. Someone crosses the paving. A voice calls from a table. The moment passes, leaving the square briefly different.

### Practical Visitor Info

- **Walk:** Follow Calle de Juan Bravo downhill from the Plaza Mayor area.
- **Pause:** Allow 15–20 minutes on a bench or café terrace.
- **Entry & access:** The square is free; church access is separate. Steps and uneven paving require care.

04

## Love measured  
in stone

The Aqueduct / Plaza del Azoguejo  
Literary connection: **“El acueducto romano”**

**Continue down Calle de Juan Bravo and along Calle Cervantes to Plaza del Azoguejo.**

The Aqueduct arrives with theatrical force. One moment you are following a street. The next, granite arches occupy the sky. Stand beneath them. Look at the openings as well as the stone.

![A high-resolution view along the granite arches of Segovia’s Roman Aqueduct](https://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/c/c0/Acueducto_de_Segovia_%2826643227093%29.jpg)

The Aqueduct’s rhythm of stone and sky. Photo: [Emilio J. Rodríguez Posada / Wikimedia Commons](https://commons.wikimedia.org/wiki/File:Acueducto%5Fde%5FSegovia%5F%2826643227093%29.jpg) · [CC BY-SA 2.0](https://creativecommons.org/licenses/by-sa/2.0/). Archival photograph, 2016; unaltered.

In the short lyric beginning **“El acueducto romano”**, published in ***Nuevas canciones* (1924)**, Machado connects the structure’s firmness to the strength of mutual love. Roman engineering becomes a measure of human attachment.[4](#sg-source-4)

Look up at the stones. Think of something precious that you hope will endure. The poem asks little more of this encounter.

### Practical Visitor Info

- **Walk:** Continue downhill to Plaza del Azoguejo; roughly 10 minutes from San Martín.
- **Entry:** Free to view from the square.
- **Best light:** Early morning for fewer people; late afternoon for warmer stone. Ground-level views avoid the steps to higher viewpoints.

05

## A book beside  
the water

Alameda del Parral & the Eresma River  
Literary connection: **“El Milagro”**

Now leave the busiest stage. **Head toward Calle de San Juan, descend toward the Eresma valley and follow the riverside paths toward Alameda del Parral.** Use a pedestrian map for this longer leg.

The soundscape changes. Traffic recedes. Water and leaves take over.

![Trees and sunlight reflected in the Eresma beside Alameda del Parral](https://storage.ghost.io/c/64/d8/64d837dd-d725-41d5-9bb5-d85cd1b29e55/content/images/2026/10/river.jpg)

The Eresma beside Alameda del Parral. Photo: [Elena36 / Wikimedia Commons](https://commons.wikimedia.org/wiki/File:R%C3%ADo%5FEresma%5FBIC%5FRI-54-0000004.jpg) · [CC BY-SA 3.0 ES](https://creativecommons.org/licenses/by-sa/3.0/es/). Archival photograph; unaltered. The same photograph opens this story.

Machado regularly walked in this landscape. The municipal tourism account describes afternoons after teaching: sitting beside the river, rolling a cigarette, reading and making notes. It also recounts his joke that opening his boarding-house window could warm the room because outside was less cold.[5](#sg-source-5)

Those accounts establish a cold room and habitual walks. His poem **“El Milagro”** supplies the Bible: its speaker walks through Segovia’s riverside alameda and reaches for his glasses to read it. Missing spectacles turn the outing into a playful meditation on sight and belief. A poem offers a scene, however, rather than proof that he read the Bible here every day.[4](#sg-source-4)

Bring a book of your own. Find a seat. Read a page, then look up. The river gives the walk its breathing space.

### Practical Visitor Info

- **Walk:** Descend to the Eresma and follow signed pedestrian routes to Alameda del Parral. Allow roughly 30–45 minutes from Azoguejo, depending on the route.
- **Entry:** The public riverside walk is free.
- **Conditions:** Wear shoes with grip. Paths can be slippery after rain; gradients and surfaces vary.

Read a page.  
Then look up.

06

## Hope takes root

El Jardín de los Poetas  
Literary connection: **“A un olmo seco”**

**Head toward the Casa de Moneda area, then climb toward Puerta de Santiago and the Jardín de los Poetas.** The ascent returns you to the city walls. The valley opens below.

Here, a commemorative elm links Segovia to **“A un olmo seco”**, Machado’s poem about an ailing tree in Soria. Written in **1912**, before Leonor’s death, it finds new green leaves on a damaged trunk. A small sign of renewal carries an enormous emotional weight.

Your browser does not support embedded video.

El Jardín de los Poetas, Segovia. Original video: The Segovian. Presented without sound.

Segovia planted its elm in **April 2014**. It came from a cutting of an elm in **Adolfo Sastre’s garden in Getafe**, itself derived from the famous Soria tree. The connection passes through successive propagation: a living lineage carried between cities.[6](#sg-source-6)

Look for the commemorative plaque. Then look at the tree. The poem holds hope against loss. Beside the walls, that hope takes a living form.

Your walk began with a room. It ends with something growing.

### Practical Visitor Info

- **Find it:** Beside Puerta de Santiago, near the Alcázar. Allow roughly 20–30 minutes uphill from the Casa de Moneda area.
- **Entry:** Free, subject to seasonal hours. Check the [official listing](https://www.turismodesegovia.com/es/turismo-de-naturaleza/patrimonio-natural/jardines/jardin-de-los-poetas) before visiting.
- **Access:** The city announced garden renovation works in 2026\. Confirm current entrance arrangements with tourism staff, particularly if you need step-free access.

### Reading the city · Sources & visitor notes

This is a researched literary walk. The poem pairings at the house, San Quirce and San Martín are interpretive companions, not claims that those precise locations inspired the poems. Walking times are estimates. Photographs are archival; gardens and streets may look different today.

1. [Turismo de Segovia: Antonio Machado House-Museum](https://www.turismodesegovia.com/en/antonio-machado/museums/antonio-machado-house-museum).
2. [Turismo de Segovia: Machado in Segovia](https://www.turismodesegovia.com/en/antonio-machado/machado-segovia); [Real Academia de San Quirce: institutional history](https://realacademiadesanquirce.es/?page%5Fid=1607).
3. [Turismo de Segovia: “Pegasos”](https://www.turismodesegovia.com/es/antonio-machado/noticias/el-poema-de-la-semana).
4. [Turismo de Segovia: Machado’s work, including the Aqueduct lyric and “El Milagro”](https://www.turismodesegovia.com/es/antonio-machado/obra).
5. [Turismo de Segovia: Segovia y Machado](https://turismodesegovia.com/fr/node/19378).
6. [Segovia Educa en Verde: the garden and elm’s provenance](https://segoviaeducaenverde.com/2016/11/06/espacios-verdes-singulares-jardin-de-los-poetas/); [Europa Press: the 2014 planting](https://www.europapress.es/sociedad/medio-ambiente-00647/noticia-retono-olmo-seco-machado-dedico-poema-crecera-jardin-poetas-segovia-20140422142123.html).

Images retain their individual licenses. Credit and license links appear beneath every photograph. No AI-generated documentary images are used.